INTRODUCTION TO GARDENING: Before you talk yourself out of it because you’re not sure where to begin and you think you might fail, you need to know that you cannot fail. Every attempted garden will yield something; if not fruit, it will give you knowledge and experience—the next garden will be better.
What constitutes a garden? Short answer, any piece of soil deliberately hosting a plant or plants. A garden may be as simple as a pot on the deck. It might be raised beds or containers or a designated plot of any dimension.
Soil: regardless of the shape or size of the garden, soil is where it begins. Your garden soil is not a matter of fate. It doesn’t matter how large or small your garden space is, you have the same control of the soil as you do with a pot you fill with garden mix. Soil is the most common garden medium. Plants can thrive without it, but that’s a whole different science—Hydroponics. Soil supports the plants as well as retains and carries nutrients. The quality of the soil determines how effective it is.
o Balance: The composition of soil is primarily CLAY—SAND—HUMOUS (organics) If your soil is too heavy or sandy, it’s a composition problem, not a divine mandate; change it.
Heavy (clay) soil is hard to work with and it is difficult for plants to thrive. Change it by adding sand and compost, generally in equal proportions. A tiller is the most effective way to mix and blend soil, but in small spaces, a shovel will work well.
Sandy soil, if it is too sandy, won’t retain water and so plants can struggle. Change it by adding clay and compost. (this is generally not a problem for Riverton)
Balanced composition—a quick and easy test for soil composition is the ball test; take a handful of moist soil from the garden spot, squeeze it into a ball. If the ball holds its shape but crumbles easily, the composition is probably good. If the ball will not crumble, it is heavy with clay and needs more sand and compost. If you cannot form a ball, the soil is too much sand and/or compost; add clay
Sunlight:
o Garden vegetables and most other plants need direct sunlight, as much as possible. Your garden spot should be in the yard’s sunniest location (there are plants that love shade)
o Plantings should be done so that taller plants don’t shade others during the garden season
Garden space or plot:
o Where there is adequate space, a ground level plot works well
o Limited space—pots, grow bags, containers and raised beds, vertical gardening is also an option
o Square foot gardening maximizes your available garden space
Know your zone: The USDA has mapped the entire country by climate or hardiness zone, ranging from coldest to hottest, 1 through 10. Gurney's: Find Your USDA Hardiness Zone with our Zone Map (gurneys.com) It is important to know your zone because that is what determines whether a plant is perennial or annual in your garden. Riverton is in zone 6 or 7, which means that plants that do not tolerate freezing will not grow here without the aid of a greenhouse or other measures. Our growing season is generally from April 15 to October 15 but frost free from May 20 to October 1, approximately 130 days frost free and 180 days total, more or less depending on the weather. What to plant? Just about anything you want, but check the number of days required from planting to harvest. If the number of days permits, it will likely do well.
Timing: when to plant is as important as what to plant.
o Cool crops: some vegetables can be planted long before the last frost, like mid March to early April: Peas, carrots, lettuce, chard, broccoli, cabbage, spinach, and others can be sewn directly in the garden early. Because of light and temperature they will likely not germinate until mid April
o Corn, tomatoes, potatoes, squash, melons, cucumbers should not be planted until May 20, earlier if you’re sure there won’t be a frost. Most of these plants can handle a light frost, but if they have to come back from a frost they don’t produce as well.
Watering
o Overhead—most plants will tolerate overhead spraying, but it is not the most effective watering method and can contribute to the spread of fungal, pest and other problems.
o Direct irrigation—either by drip or furrow is effective and efficient and generally speaking, plants prefer it.
Fertilizers:
o Fertilizers are formulations of the 3 to 4 most basic nutrients plants need. Plants use trace elements that are generally available in the soil. The basic elements in commercial fertilizers are: Nitrogen—Phosphorus—Potassium(potash)—Sulfur, each are essential to specific plant needs:
Nitrogen—leaf and green growth
Phosphorus—roots and stems
Potassium—roots, stems and fruit
Sulfur—lowers pH—not present in all formulations
o Formulas:
16-16-8 16% nitrogen, 16% phosphorus, 8% potassium (also comes with iron added) This is a good all purpose garden formula applied in the fall or early spring
21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate) 21% nitrogen. 24% sulfur; Good for greening up lawns and giving corn a boost. The sulfur content also helps to keep the pH down which helps to make other nutrients available to plants
34-0-0 (ammonium nitrate) 34% nitrogen, Good for green lawns
12-12-12 (Miracle Grow) a balance formula good for almost all garden plants
14-14-14 another balanced formula, just a little stronger
Slow release—balanced formulas are available in slow release which means an application can last all season. Osmocote is popular but the brand name makes it pricy. Other brands are just as good and less money. Look for the formulation and “slow release”
WATCH THE NITROGEN—fertilizers high in nitrogen should not be used on tomatoes, potatoes and most other garden plants and vegetables. Too much nitrogen will produce huge and beautiful plants with little or zero blossoms and fruit.
Tools
o Shovel—for turning and mixing soil as well as harvesting root crops and clearing the spent garden. A shovel and muscle will do what a tiller does where the space doesn’t warrant the tiller
o Hoe—for cultivating, planting, aerating, and more cultivating. I have a hoe that is only 2” wide and is my favorite and most used tool. It does everything a common hoe does but is small enough to do it all in tight and crowded plantings.
o Garden rake—used primarily for fall and spring clean up
o Leaf rake—fall and spring clean up
o Garden trowel—for planting and cultivating in pots and container gardens
o Other tools—there are many and all are optional. 95% of my gardening is done with my shovel and mini hoe.
Help links: Wilson's Garden (wilsonsgarden.blogspot.com) CONTAINER GARDENING for BEGINNERS: 10 Simple Steps - YouTube Cheap and Easy Container Gardening: Step by Step - YouTube My Most Beautiful Organic Garden Summer Harvest EVER! - Bing video Cali Kim does a lot with small spaces 3 Clever Ways to GROW MORE in a Small Space - YouTube VERTICAL GARDENING TIPS & IDEAS: Why and how to add VERTICAL SPACE to your garden for EVERY BUDGET - YouTube Grow THESE 3 Veggies in Your Vertical Garden - YouTube SQUARE FOOT Gardening, How to Grow MORE FOOD in LESS SPACE! -
YouTube You can find ideas and help on just about any garden question with the help of YouTube